Hotel Review: La Résidence Phou Vao, A Belmond Hotel, Luang Prabang

After staying 2 nights in the heart of Luang Prabang's old town at Avani+ Luang Prabang Hotel, we decided to change a scenery, relocating to La Résidence Phou Vao, A Belmond Hotel, Luang Prabang to relax one night in its serene mountain setting.

The property, once a royal residence, became a hotel in 1991 under the name Pansea. It was rebranded as La Résidence Phou Vao in 2006 under Orient-Express management. Finally with the acquisition of Orient-Express by Belmond in 2014, it became known as Belmond La Résidence Phou Vao.

While Belmond happens to be ranked as the third most luxurious hotel in Luang Prabang, following Amantaka and Rosewood, it provides a unique value proposition that makes it stand out among 2 others. Personally, I believe an Aman experience should stand alone, particularly in destinations like Indochina. Amantaka is located in the heart of old town, right next to Avani, potentially making my experience repetitive. In contrast, both Rosewood and Belmond are located in the mountains, providing a unique sense of escape. With Rosewood priced at over $600 per night and Belmond starting at $300+, I found Belmond to be the more attractive choice for this time of stay.

Checkin :

We checked out of Avani at noon and despite our booking at Belmond included a pickup service, Avani was kind enough to arrange a luxury van to escort us to Belmond. Our driver, who had worked at Belmond for over 20 years, shared delightful anecdotes during the short ride.

On arrival, I was warmly welcomed by the rhythmic sound of traditional Lao drums and given marigold flowers as part of a local blessing ritual. Andrei, our guest experience manager, welcomed us warmly and guided us to the check-in process, while the other staff efficiently handled our luggage. The process was professional and accompanied by a refreshing welcome drink and local snacks.

Our Amex FHR booking included:

1. Airport pick-up and drop-off
2. Early checkin at 12 pm
3. Breakfast for 2 people
4. Room upgrade
5. $100 hotel property credit
6. Late checkout at 4 pm

Hotel Property :

The hotel owns a massive territory ranging from the hotel lobby and guest rooms to spa sections, and a private garden with lotus ponds.

Room :

There are only 4 room categories in this hotel property:

1. Garden View Junior Suite (55 sq. m.)
2. Mountain View Junior Suite (55 sq. m.)
3. Mountain and Pool View Junior Suite (55 sq. m.)
4. Phou Vao Garden Suite (65 sq. m.)

We were upgraded one category up to one of the best Mountain View Junior Suites as a Amex FHR benefit.

Mountain View Junior Suite was tastefully appointed, with a wooden theme that created a warm and inviting atmosphere. There was a handwritten welcome letter and a selection of thoughtful food and beverage, which included complimentary glasses of water, a basket of fresh fruit, and local sweets reminiscent of mochi. One of the standout features of the room was the charming mosquito net draped above the bed, adding both a functional and aesthetic touch. The stone bathtub provided an exotic touch to the bathroom, accompanied by a selection of bath amenities, including bath salts. The provided shampoo, conditioner, and body wash all featured a pleasant fragrance, enhancing the overall bathing experience.

While some of the appliances showed signs of age, they were well-maintained, contributing to the room’s overall sense of classic charm and cleanliness. The highlight, however, was the private balcony, which provided panoramic views of the mountains and the iconic Phousi Temple. It became the perfect spot to relax for a couple of hours, immersing myself in the tranquil ambiance of the landscape.

Andrei showed me the other room categories including Mountain and Pool View Junior Suite and Phou Vao Garden Suite.

Mountain and Pool View Junior Suite, which is one category higher than our room, had a better layout with the bed facing directly towards the mountain view, but two potential disadvantages are 1. it faces the pool which I imagine gets crowded during the high season. 2. the bathtub doesn't have the mountain view. Phou Vao Garden Suite is the highest category room at the property. While it enjoys more space than other rooms, the major disadvantage is it looks over the garden which doesn't provide the impressive mountain view.

For guests like myself who proprieties privacy and tranquility, the Mountain View Junior Suite is the perfect choice. Despite a day of heavy rain, the sound of rainfall added a serene ambiance to our time on the suite’s balcony, making it an ideal environment for relaxation.

Restaurant:

We used our $100 property credit for dinner at the hotel's restaurant, Tam Nan. What stood out most about this dining experience was the commitment to sourcing 95% of the ingredients locally, ensuring fresh and authentic flavours. The meal was extraordinary, beginning with two starters: Laab Fish and Born in Fire. For the main courses, we enjoyed perfectly prepared steamed Mekong Fish and charcoal-grilled chicken. The dinner concluded with a beautifully prepared dessert. Without a doubt, this was one of the finest dining experiences I’ve ever had, with every dish crafted to perfection.

The next morning, breakfast at Tam Nan was entirely from à la carte menu.

Checkout :

This was a sad moment to say goodbye to this beautiful hotel property. At checkout, the front staff provided an extra personal touch by gifting us a beautifully hand-drawn fan with our names, a thoughtful gesture to make our stay even more memorable. Despite the early hour, we checked out at 1 a.m. for our flight back to Bangkok. The staff had arranged an airport transfer, coupled with complimentary water and refreshing cold towels, ensuring a comfortable departure.

Conclusion :

In conclusion, our stay at La Résidence Phou Vao was nothing short of flawless. The hotel’s peaceful setting, exceptional service, and luxurious amenities created an unforgettable experience, making it an ideal destination for a one-night escape or a longer stay. For improvement, I would suggest updating some of the room appliances, such as the fridge, clothing iron, and toilet. However, these are minor details in an otherwise impeccable experience. The dining at Tam Nan is a must-try, and I highly recommend this property for anyone visiting Luang Prabang.

Other luxury hotels in Luang Prabang :

1. Amantaka
2. Rosewood Luang Prabang